I've finally begun the DIY build on my RIMS System. For those not familiar with this system, (Recirculating Infusion Mash System), click here to learn all about Recirculating Infusion Mash Systems.
First of all, I didn't design the stand, I bought it from someone in Pensacola, Florida that was getting married and needed the money. He spent about three years researching and finally designing and building the stand.
It's all stainless steel and came with three Hurricane Burners by Hurricane Products, Inc. (he said he had bought the banjo burners from Bayou Classic but wasn't happy with the quality, so he scrapped them and purchased these from Hurricane Products, Inc.) Here are several pictures of the RIMS System build so far.
The problems so far usually entail little things. Such as not having all the right small fittings and having to run to town to purchase them. Things like nipples, adapters, elbows, etc.
As you can see, I'm using stainless steel fittings wherever possible. They are usually more expensive but in the long run, worth it because stainless steel is extremely durable (almost indestructible) food-grade metal that resists corrosion in caustic fluids and can be sanitized easily making it basically food-grade. I've wanted to use March Pumps with Stainless Steel heads but the price was way too high, until now...
If you haven't heard about this value in March homebrewing pump replacement it's called the Chugger Pump. And guess what, MoreBeer.com is now selling them. Chugger Pumps at MoreBeer.com
Model #-CPSS30.5.2010 Construction-Stainless Steel Max Flow 6 gpm Max head-14 ft Port Sizes1/2" NPT Voltage-115 VAC and Max Temp-250°F The impeller is made of Polysulfone plastic; O-ring is Silicon; thrust washer is Teflon.
Sounds familiar huh? Check out the pictures:
As you can tell, I love a great deal. I believe these pumps will be very popular with the homebrew community and you can spend the money you save on other upgrades for your system.
OK, on to the RIMS System build again. One of the next steps is to connect the gas valves with the burners and I haven't really decided whether to go with flex hose or make the lines with stainless tubing and bend the tubing. If I go with tubing, I'll have to find a way to flare the 1/2" tubing for the orifice on the burner. With flex gas connector it will come ready with female flare fittings and the hose can be bent in any configuration. It's a good temporary fix and I think this is the way I'll go.
Next will be to run the 1/4" pilot tubing and attach the Honeywell pilot light and flame sensor to the stand and into the burner. The ignition control module will control the burner when a call for heat is detected, and maintain the pilot light flame. If it senses the light has been blown out, it will shut down the burner and try to relight the pilot light. This is all for safety and I think a very good idea as I plan on using the stand for demonstrations and wouldn't want anyone getting hurt while no one is watching the pilot.
Keep the page bookmarked if you are interested in the build as I'll be updating it as I continue building. Right now, the build is at a standstill while waiting on a pump housing that I cracked. I suppose I'll have to go ahead and cut the tops off my two kegs and start working on the fittings for the vessels. I've bought weldless fittings for a sight-glass on each vessel, thermometers, and ball valves.
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