Here is my RIMS Build, Page 3. First off, you may notice that I purchased a new brew kettle from MoreBeer.com. I ordered it with a notched lid for my Immersion Chiller which I plan to use to chill the wort down. This is one super-heavy-duty kettle and a great deal. Plus, you get the MoreBeer customer service if you ever have any problems or need modifications made to the kettle. I have installed the Tri-clover clamps on all vessels as well as all ball valves and thermometers. Checking for leaks was a chore though but all are sealed tightly and ready to brew.
I still have to drill a few holes in the vessels. One return line on the HLT, a return line/Blichmann Auto Sparge on the MLT, and a return line for the whirlpool and drain line for the Blichmann Hop Blocker on the brew kettle. I will wait until I get the stainless plumbing run before I decide where to drill the final holes.
I still have to fabricate the whirlpool arm to go on the Immersion Chiller but I bought a small roll of 3/8" OD soft copper from Lowes the other day and it should be a simple matter.
Here is a pic of the ignition modules for the intermittent pilot lights and dual gas valves. After doing some reading on HomebrewTalk.com, I found out that these modules could cause some interference if mounted in the same box as the other electronics.
So, here is my work-around. Stainless boxes were extremely expensive, plus I couldn't find one the right dimensions. The 50 cal ammo box was painted silver to match the rest of the stainless steel on the RIMS.
The box was mounted on the lower brace in the center of the gas valves to minimize the wiring problems. I drilled a couple of holes in the back for all the wiring to exit and plan on either sealing it with silicone or getting some large rubber grommets to prevent the wiring from rubbing on the sharp edges of the holes.
The ammo box is completely waterproof when sealed and the holes are in such a position that they shouldn't allow any liquids into the box (when properly sealed with silicone).
Here is another pic of the ammo box mounted and closed. I wish I could have found/afforded a stainless box that was waterproof, but this is a pretty good alternative.
You can get stainless steel pump heads or a pump with stainless pump head installed at MoreBeer.com.
The stainless heads look much better and the footprint is smaller compared to the center outlet polysulfone heads I had on before. Talk about a nice upgrade!
Here is the latest and greatest as of July 20, 2010. In the last couple of days I plumbed in the pilot lines and the gas lines to the burners. I bought a new RIGID stainless steel tubing bender, but didn't need it.
The RIGID models made for copper worked just fine. Besides, these have a tighter bend radius so I have more control over the bends. It was all a lot easier than I imagined, however, I did go through a learning curve and learned to pay attention to the bends. I made several mistakes on the 1/4" pilot tubing. Several bends mysteriously went the wrong direction...check, double check, then check again before bending.
Here is a shot of the wiring on one of the gas control valves. I bought some generic spark plug wires from Auto Zone and connected them to the pilot ignitor. I then tie-wrapped them along the 1/4" stainless pilot tubing.
The wiring harness to the ignition modules were also connected to the gas control valve and the rest was run into the back of the ammo box which houses the ignition modules.
I did this on all three gas control valves. It's not pretty yet, but I plan on getting a product called Bentley-Harris ConvoShield. It is chrome and will withstand temps of 500°F. It should make the jumble of wires look much nicer. Here is a link to the website where I found the wire loom product.
I also purchased some chrome colored tie-wraps meant to keep wiring looking nice inside of an engine that's all chromed out. You can find them at Speed Shops or Cycle accessory shops online. Just Google Chrome Cable Ties.
Here is a pic of the burner hardware. I finally figured out how to adapt the orifice valve so it wouldn't stick out so far. It took a LOT of searching but I found a 3/8" brass street elbow that fit into the hurricane burner.
The orifice valve screwed right into the elbow and everything is nice and snug now. I'm not 100% sure about how the orifice being up against the back of the 90° elbow will affect the flow of propane, but I can always cut off some of the orifice.
This is a pic of the HLT burner with the 1/2" stainless tubing run to the gas control valve. You can see the pilot light tubing with the wires (these will be run to the control panel) wrapped around the spark plug wire and 1/4" tubing. Also in the shot is the stainless heads I just installed.
Notice the bug screens on the burners. Around here we have a big problem with wasps making mud nests in anything with a hole. I had mud nests in the end of each of the Stainless Tubes I had bought for the plumbing build. I had to cut off about 3 inches to get them out.
That's what I have got done in the last couple of days. Next is to connect the wiring inside the Ammo Box to the ignition modules. The loose wires you see near the gas control valves will be connected and run to the control panel for 24V power and also connected to the Love Controllers. Check back soon for more updates.
If you find this site helpful, please link to us!